The Italian tailoring tradition is among the oldest and most envied in the world: it gives the expression made in Italy a profound and inimitable value.
One of the men's garments that is most often tailored is men's trousers.
The details of classic trousers
Classic men's trousers, dress trousers, require a lot of effort and experience to make. The seams must be resistant to withstand tension, wear and tear over time, washing, and the cut must be precise to the millimetre.
The points to pay close attention to when requesting custom-made trousers are: the waist , which must be neither too high nor too low; the fly, which must have comfortable buttons that disappear behind the fabric; the crotch, for which it is best to ask for a double back seam to avoid deterioration; the pockets , which can be oblique side pockets, American pockets, which “disappear” on the side line of the trousers, or horizontal pockets.
Then there is the question of pleats , which depends on tastes, needs and occasions of use.
The detail of details: the hem
The golden rule of tailoring that states that the hem of the trousers should touch the heel of the shoe has adapted to current tastes by bringing the length to touch the instep , without resting completely and without creating creases that today would be unsightly.
For this reason Lirecento has created two different lengths of trousers : to adapt to the physique and leg of every man, obtaining a result of always appreciable wearability.
Lapel yes or no lapel? The lapel is more informal, it is classically found in the chino model, but it is also visually more pleasing than the plain hem, which is a must on tuxedos and formal suits.
Be careful, however, about the cm of the lapel: the higher it is, the more it could penalize a non-slender figure. In this case, ask your tailor for advice!
The sartorial details of pleated trousers
Pants with pleats are notoriously very comfortable thanks to the pleats, single or double , placed on the front. If you choose to rely on a tailor to make trousers with this detail, know that they should fit perfectly on the waist, which remains slightly high. The only exception for which the waist is worn a little higher is to slim the leg and the figure, thus lengthening the crotch.
Italian tailoring tradition dictates that trousers with a single pleat , like those offered by Lirecento, are ideal for a mismatched suit, while double pleats are more suitable for a suit.
And what about the five-pocket model?
The five-pocket is another name for the classic model of jeans , with a straight leg and a fairly tight fit.
“Cinquetasche” because it always has two front pockets and two back pockets applied as patches, that is, above the trousers, plus a small pocket on the front, usually on the right.
The fly closure, unlike more elegant trousers, is zipped and has no buttons. How to choose the fabric for a pair of jeans? The answer is difficult: it depends on your taste, the weight, the color... Remember that generally a good denim fabric must have a high percentage of cotton and a small, but essential, percentage of elastane that makes the garment comfortable by contrasting the rigidity of the main material.
Attention! Five-pocket models are not always made of denim fabric: you may find them, or request them, in other fabrics.
Chinos: what tailoring details characterize them?
In men's chino trousers, the waist must always be at the right point. The leg fit is comfortable: it must not mark the calf!
In this model of trousers, a tailored slit is often added, that is, the “v” placed on the back of the trousers , where the belt passes. This detail increases comfort and gives the garment a more elegant and refined nuance.
The Lirecento trousers are characterised by some sartorial details to give you the chance to wear a refined, comfortable and elegant garment at the same time, always made in Italy .